Thanksgiving wouldn’t be the tradition it is without pumpkin — baked mostly in pies, but also included in cakes and mousse. Whether you prefer a warm, spicy pie or a chilled nouveau creation, variations abound. Rose Levy Beranbaum, baker extraordinaire and author of numerous baking books, including The Pie and Pastry Bible (TScribner, $35), and the upcoming The Bread Bible (W.W. Norton) likes cooking the pumpkin and spices a processing them before baking, “which makes for a more mellow and pleasing flavor with a silken texture.” Here, she shares some favorite pumpkin pleasures with USA TODAY’s Shawn Sell. (Holiday baking questions? E-mail Beranbaum from her Web site www.cakebible.com.)

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