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Table Critic
Table Critic Review
Every now and then most of us seriously consider quitting our current job to pursue a life that seems feasible only in day dreams. Few of us actually do it. Joanne Chang, owner of Flour bakery in the South End, left her job as a management consultant to pursue a career in professional cooking. In the six years since Flour opened its doors on Washington Street, it has been praised by such publications as Boston Magazine, The Improper Bostonian, The Boston Phoenix, Food and Wine, The New York Times and Gourmet, and counts popular dining destinations Toro and Stella among its neighbors.
What makes Flour so appealing is its modest attitude in the face of great success. It is a place where locals will wait in a line that sometimes stretches down the block for a seat on weekend mornings. The well-lit, simply decorated space is small and inviting without feeling crowded despite the constant foot traffic. Adorning one entire wall is a large blackboard that lists the menu items in colored chalk. The menu features breakfast breads and pastries, sandwiches, soups, salads and dinner specials. All of the food, including the roasted meat for sandwiches, is prepared fresh every day in Flour's bustling kitchen using only natural ingredients and never preservatives. The room's main attraction is the bakery case which flaunts Flour's sweet treats and makes a quick decision seem nearly impossible. After tasting numerous items from the case and off the menu, I have yet to declare a favorite. The first plate served to us was piled high with a variety of cookies including oatmeal raisin, ginger molasses, peanut butter and the Scharffenberger chocolate chip cookie made with two kinds of chocolate. The autumnal ginger molasses cookie is the perfect blend of sugar and spice. All of the cookies are the ideal consistency, being neither too doughy nor too crispy.
Our next victims were an apricot almond bar, a blueberry crumble bar, a lemon lust bar, a brioche au chocolat, and a chocolate chip macaroon. Also on the plate was a piece of the decadent hazelnut-almond dacquoise made of layers of nut meringue, espresso buttercream and dark chocolate grenache. The brioche au chocolate is a testament to the genius of combining eggs, sugar and dairy. A dollop of cream rests on top of the sweet bread and is drizzled with chocolate. There is no graceful way to eat this creamy mound but attempts to save every last bite will inevitably result in a clean face. Despite initial fears of sugar highs and tummy aches, it took only a matter of minutes for the beautiful desserts to be reduced to a pile of crumbs. Nothing we tried was too sweet or too rich to be left behind.
After eating our way through pastries, tarts, cakes and breads, we were given a sampling of Flour's take on comfort food. There was a homemade Oreo cookie, a slice of banana bread and a cupcake. The Oreo cookie resembles a whoopee pie, but is made with a crispy cookie and frosting that tastes too good not to lick. The banana bread is wonderfully soft and moist. Tasting the baked goods of my childhood birthday parties convinced me that Flour deserves all of its accolades. It is a place that a neighbor can visit regularly for a usual snack of coffee and a scone, and a tourist can visit once and be wowed by a Belgian chocolate brownie. The friendly staff, the unpretentious attitude and the just plain delicious food will make you feel both special and regular on every visit. Even if Flour isn't in your neighborhood, go out of your way to visit frequently. The bakery and cafe are open every day for a quick coffee and a treat, a leisurely lunch or a dinner to go. If you're stuck in a less than perfect job, eat at Flour and consider life's endless possibilities.
by Abby Bielagus
